Book IV. An Account of Countries, Nations, Seas, Towns, Havens, Mountains, Rivers, Distances, and Peoples Who Now Exist or Formerly Existed.

Chaps. 1-7.

Chap. 1. (1.)—Epirus.

The third great Gulf of Europe begins at the mountains of Acroceraunia [Now called Monti della Chimera, or Mountains of Khimara. See p. 262.], and ends at the Hellespont, embracing an extent of 2500 miles, exclusive of the sea-line of nineteen smaller gulfs. Upon it are Epirus, Acarnania, Ætolia, Phocis, Locris, Achaia, Messenia, Laconia, Argolis, Megaris, Attica, Bœotia; and again, upon the other sea [The Ægean Sea, the present Archipelago.], the same Phocis and Locris, Doris, Phthiotis, Thessalia, Magnesia, Macedonia and Thracia. All the fabulous lore of Greece, as well as the effulgence of her literature, first shone forth upon the banks of this Gulf. We shall therefore dwell a little the longer upon it.

Epirus [This country contained, according to Pouqueville, the present Sangiacs of Janina, Delvino, and Chamouri, with the Vavodilika or Principality of Arta. This name was originally given to the whole of the west of Greece, from the Promontory of Acroceraunia to the entrance of the Corinthian Gulf, in contradistinction to Corcyra and the island of Cephallenia.], generally so called, begins at the mountains of Acroceraunia. The first people that we meet are the Chaones, from whom Chaonia [This district, according to Pouqueville, occupied the present Cantons of Chimera, Iapouria, Arboria, Paracaloma, and Philates.] receives its name, then the Thesproti [They occupied the site of the present Paramythia, according to Pouqueville.], and then the Antigonenses [Antigonia was about a mile distant, Pouqueville says, from the modern town of Tebelen.]. We then come to the place where Aornos [From Ἀ “not,” and ὄρνις “a bird.” Its site is now unknown. There were many places of this name. Avernus or Aornos in Campania has been previously mentioned.] stood, with its exhalations so deadly to the feathered race, the Cestrini [The remains of Cestria are still to be seen at Palea Venetia, near the town of Filiates. Pouqueville calls the place Chamouri.], the Perrhæbi [According to Pouqueville, the modern Zagori stands on the site of Perrhæbia. Pindus is sometimes called Grammos, but is still known by its ancient name.], in whose country Mount Pindus is situate, the Cassiopæi [Cassiope or Cassope stood near the sea, and near the present village of Kamarina. Its extensive ruins are still to be seen.], the Dryopes [Their district, according to Pouqueville, was in the present Canton of Drynopolis.], the Sellæ [The Selli or Sellæ lived in the vicinity of the temple of Jupiter at Dodona, in the modern canton of Souli, according to Pouqueville.], the Hellopes [The country about Dodona is called Hellopia by Hesiod. By some the Helli or Hellopes are considered the same as the Selli. Pouqueville thinks that the Hellopes dwelt in the modern cantons of Janina, Pogoniani, Sarachovitzas, and Courendas, and that the temple of Jupiter stood at the spot now called Proskynisis, near Gardiki, the town of Dodona being near Castritza. Leake is of the same opinion as to the site of the town; but, as has been a subject of remark, it is the only place of celebrity in Greece of which the situation is not exactly known. Leake however thinks that the temple stood on the peninsula now occupied by the citadel of Joanina.], the Molossi, in whose territory is the temple of the Dodonæan Jupiter, so famous for its oracle; and Mount Tomarus [Pouqueville thinks that this is the hill to be seen at the modern village of Gardiki. He is also of opinion that the springs here mentioned are those at the modern village of Besdounopoulo. His opinions however on these points have not been implicitly received.], so highly praised by Theopompus, with its hundred springs gushing from its foot.

(2.) Epirus, properly so called, advances towards Magnesia and Macedonia, having at its back the Dassaretæ, previously [B. iii. c.. The Dardani, Triballi, and Mœsi are mentioned in c.. The localities of the other tribes here mentioned are not known with any exactness.] mentioned, a free nation, and after them the Dardani, a savage race. On the left hand, before the Dardani are extended the Triballi and the nations of Mœsia, while in front of them the Medi and the Denselatæ join, and next to them the Thracians, who stretch away as far as the Euxine: in such a manner is a rampart raised around the lofty heights of Rhodope, and then of Hæmus.

On the coast of Epirus is the fortress of Chimæra [It retains the same name or that of Khimara, and gives its name to the Acroceraunian range. It was situate at the foot of the chain, which begins at this spot.], situate upon the Acroceraunian range, and below it the spring known as the Royal Waters [“Aquæ regiæ.” Pouqueville suggests, without good reason, as Ansart thinks, that this spring was situate near the modern Drimodez or Dermadez.]; then the towns of Mæandria, and Cestria [The place called Palæo-Kistes now stands on its site, and some remains of antiquity are to be seen.], the Thyamis [Now the Calama.], a river of Thesprotia, the colony of Buthrotum [Its ruins are to be seen near the modern Butrinto. It was said to have been founded by Helenus, the son of Priam. Pomponius Atticus had an estate here.], and the Ambracian Gulf [This corresponds to the present Gulf of Arta, and was especially famous for being the scene of the battle of Actium. The city of Ambracia lay to the north of it. The present Arta is generally believed to occupy its site.], so famed in history; which, with an inlet only half a mile in width, receives a vast body of water from the sea, being thirty-seven miles in length, and fifteen in width. The river Acheron, which runs through Acherusia, a lake of Thesprotia, flows into it [Pouqueville has shown that Pliny is in error here, and he says that the Acheron is the modern Mavro Potamos; but according to Leake, the name of it is Gurla, or the river of Suli. It flows into the Port Fanari, formerly called Glykys Limen, or Sweet Harbour, from the freshness of the water there. The Acherusian Lake is probably the great marsh that lies below Kastri.] after a course of thirty-six miles; it is considered wonderful for its bridge, 1000 feet in length, by a people who look upon everything as wonderful that belongs to themselves. Upon this Gulf is also situate the town of Ambracia. There are also the Aphas and the Arachthus [It is now called the Arta, and gives name to the Gulf.], rivers of the Molossi; the city of Anactoria [The site of Anactoria or Anactorium, like that of its neighbour Actium, has been a subject of much dispute; but it is now pretty generally agreed that the former stood on the modern Cape Madonna, and Actium on the headland of La Punta.], and the place where Pandosia [Pouqueville takes the ruins in the vicinity of Turco Palaka, eight miles from Margariti, to be those of Pandosia.] stood.

Chap. 2.—Acarnania.

The towns of Acarnania [This district probably occupied the present cantons of Vonitza and Xeromeros. It was called Curetis from the Curetes, who are said to have come from Ætolia and settled in Acarnania after their expulsion by Ætolus and his followers.], the ancient name of which was Curetis, are Heraclia [The modern Vonitza is supposed to stand on its site.], Echinus [Leake places its site at Ai Vasili, where some ruins are to be seen.], and, on the coast, Actium, a colony founded by Augustus, with its famous temple of Apollo and the free city of Nicopolis [“The city of Victory.” Founded by Augustus on the spot where he had pitched his camp before the battle of Actium.]. Passing out of the Ambracian Gulf into the Ionian Sea, we come to the coast of Leucadia, with the Promontory of Leucate [Now called Capo Ducato or Capo tis Kiras. It is situate at the extremity of the island of Leucas, and opposite to Cephallenia. Sappho is said to have leapt from this rock on finding her love for Phaon unrequited: the story however is devoid of all historical truth.], and then the Gulf and the peninsula of Leucadia [Now the island of Santa Maura. It was originally a peninsula, and Homer speaks of it as such; but the Corinthians cut a canal through the isthmus and converted it into an island. After the canal had been choked up for some time with sand, the Romans reopened it. It is at present dry in some parts.], which last was formerly called Neritis [Probably from its town Nericus, mentioned by Homer.]. By the exertions of the inhabitants it was once cut off from the mainland, but was again joined to it by the vast bodies of sand accumulated through the action of the winds. This spot is called Dioryctos [From the Greek word διορυκτὸς, a “foss” or “trench.”], and is three stadia in length: on the peninsula is the town of Leucas, formerly called Neritus [It probably had this name from the circumstance of the inhabitants of Nericus being removed thither by the Corinthians under Cypselus. The remains of Leucas, which was ravaged by the Romans B.C. 197, are still to be seen.]. We next come to Alyzia [Its remains are still to be seen in the valley of Kandili, south of Vonitza.], Stratos [Pouqueville says that very extensive and perfect ruins of this place are to be seen near the village of Lepenou.], and Argos [This famous city was deserted on the foundation of Nicopolis by Augustus. The place of its site has been a subject of much dispute, but it is considered most probable that Leake has rightly suggested that the ruins in the plain of Vlikha, at the village of Neokhori, are those of this city.], surnamed Amphilochian, cities of the Acarnanians: the river Acheloüs [Now the Aspropotamo.] flows from the heights of Pindus, and, after separating Acarnania from Ætolia, is fast adding the island of Artemita [One of the group of the Echinades; small islands off the coast of Acarnania, which are mentioned by Pliny, in C. of the present Book. It is now quite united to the mainland.] to the mainland by the continual deposits of earth which it brings down its stream.

Chap. 3. (2.)—Ætolia.

The peoples of Ætolia are the Athamanes [Pouqueville says that Athamania occupied the localities now known as Djoumerca and Radovitch. It properly belonged to Epirus, and Pliny makes a mistake in considering it as a part of Ætolia.], the Tymphæi [According to Pouqueville the ruins of Tymphæa are to be seen near the village of Paliouri, four miles from Janina.], the Ephyri [Ephyre, a town of the Agræi, is also mentioned by Strabo, but nothing whatever is known of it.], the Ænienses, the Perrhæbi [The main body of the Perrhæbi were a people of Thessaly.], the Dolopes [Dolopia, now called Anovlachia, was properly reckoned part of Epirus.], the Maraces, and the Atraces [They are probably not the same people as the inhabitants of Atrax in Thessaly, which will be found mentioned in the 15th Chapter of this Book.], in whose territory rises the river Atrax, which flows into the Ionian Sea. Calydon [The most famous city of Ætolia in its day, and the residence of Œneus, father of Meleager and Tydeus, and grandfather of Diomedes. The greater part of its inhabitants were removed by Augustus to his new city of Nicopolis. Leake supposes its ruins to be those seen by him at Kurt-Aga, to the east of the river Evenus.] is a city of Ætolia, situate at a distance of seven miles from the sea, and near the banks of the river Evenus [Now called the Fidaris.]. We then come to Macynia [Pouqueville supposes the site of Macynia to have been that of the modern Koukio-Castron, and that of Molycria the present Manaloudi.], and Molycria, behind which lie Mounts Chalcis [Probably the present Varassova; there was a town called Chalcis, or Hypochalcis, at its foot. The present Kaki-Skala was probably the mountain of Taphiassus.] and Taphiassus. On the coast again, there is the promontory of Antirrhium [Opposite the Promontory of Rhium, at the entrance of the Corinthian Gulf. It is now called the Castle of Roumelia, or the Punta of the Dardanelles of Roum Ili.], off which is the mouth of the Corinthian Gulf, which flows in and separates Ætolia from the Peloponnesus, being less [Leake and Dodwell make it a mile and a half.] than one mile in width. The promontory which faces it on the opposite side is called Rhion [Or Rhium. It is now called the Castle of the Morea.]. The towns of Ætolia, however, on the Corinthian Gulf are Naupactus [The modern Enebatché or Lepanto; whence the Corinthian Gulf takes its modern name.] and Pylene [Proschium was built at a later period on the site of Pylene. Its site appears to be unknown. The modern Kyra-tis-Irinis is thought to occupy the site of Pleuron.]; and, more inland, Pleuron and Halicyrna [Leake supposes some ruins between Kurt-aga, the site of Chalcedon, and the east end of the Lagoon of Missolonghi, to be the remains of Halicyrna.]. The most famous mountains are Tomarus, in the district of Dodona, Crania [Leake supposes it to be identical with the high mountain now called Kelberini. Others again identify it with Gribovo.] in Ambracia, Aracynthus [Pliny erroneously places this mountain in Acarnania. It was a range of Ætolia, now called Zygos.] in Acarnania, and Acanthon [Perhaps the modern Djourmerca.], Panætolium [Either the present Plocopari, or perhaps, more probably, Viena.], and Macynium [A part of Mount Taphiassus. It is mentioned only by Pliny.], in Ætolia.

Chap. 4. (3.)—Locris and Phocis.

Next to Ætolia are the Locri [They are supposed to have inhabited the modern districts of Malandrino and Salone. They were called “Ozolæ” or ‘strong-smelling,’ either from the undressed skins worn by them, or from the quantities of asphodel that grew in their country; or else from the vapours thrown off by the mineral springs in those parts.], surnamed Ozolæ; a people exempt from tribute. Here is the town of Œanthe [Pouqueville imagines its ruins to be those seen about two leagues from the modern Galaxidi.], the port [Lapie marks this in his map as the modern port of Ianakhi.] of Apollo Phæstius, and the Gulf of Crissa [So called from the ancient town of Crissa, which stood on it. It is the same as the modern Gulf of Salona.]. In the interior are the towns of Argyna, Eupalia [Or Eupalium. Leake supposes it to have stood in the plain of Marathia, opposite the islands of Trazonia, where some ruins still exist.], Phæstum, and Calamisus. Beyond are the Cirrhæan plains of Phocis, the town of Cirrha [Pausanias makes this town to be the same with the Homeric Crissa, but Strabo distinguishes the two places, and his opinion is now generally followed; Cirrha being thought to have been built at the head of the Crissæan gulf, as the port of Crissa. Its ruins are thought to be those which bear the modern name of Magula.], and the port of Chalæon [Or Chalæum. Pliny erroneously calls it a town of Phocis, it being on the coast of the Locri Ozolæ. He is wrong also in placing it seven miles from Delphi, and not improbably confounded it with Cirrha. Leake suggests that its site was the present Larnaki.], seven miles from which, in the interior, is situate the free town of Delphi [The modern village of Kastri stands on part of the site of ancient Delphi. Its ruins have been explored by Chandler, Leake, and Ulrichs.], at the foot of Mount Parnassus [The two highest summits of the range of Parnassus in the vicinity of Delphi were Tithorea, now Velitza, to the N.W., and Lycorea, now Liakura, to the N.E. Its rocks above Delphi were called the Phædriades or “Resplendent.”], and having the most celebrated oracle of Apollo throughout the whole world. There is the Fountain too of Castalia [The famed Castalian spring is now called the Fountain of St. John, from the chapel of that saint which stands close to its source.], and the river Cephisus [Now the Mavro-Potamo.] which flows past Delphi, rising in the former city of Lilæa [Its ruins are still to be seen about three leagues from Kastri.]. Besides these, there is the town of Crissa [Or Crisso. It was situate inland to the S.W. of Delphi. Its ruins are to be seen at a short distance from the modern village of Chryso.] and that of Anticyra [It is supposed that the few ruins seen near the modern Aspra Spitia are those of this place. It was famous for its hellebore, which was extensively used for the cure of madness. There were two other places of the same name.], with the Bulenses [The people of Bulis, near the Crissæan Gulf. Its ruins are situate at a short distance from the monastery of Dobé.]; as also Naulochum [Ansart suggests that this was the present port of Agio-Sideri or Djesphina.], Pyrrha, Amphissa [It occupied the site of the modern Salona; the walls of its ancient Acropolis are still to be seen. It was the chief town of the Locri Ozolæ.], exempt from all tribute, Tithrone, Tritea [Pouqueville thinks that the ruins seen near Moulki are those of Tithrone, and that Tritea stood on the site of the present Turcochorion.], Ambrysus [Or Amphrysus, famous for the strength of its fortifications and its scarlet berries for dyeing. Some remains of it are to be seen at the modern village of Dhistomo.], and Drymæa [On the frontiers of Doris and Phocis. Leake thinks that its ruins are those seen midway between Kamares and Glamista. Daulis was also the name of an ancient town of Phocis, the ruins of which are to be seen at the modern village of Dhavlia.], which district has also the name of Daulis. The extremity of the gulf washes one corner of Bœotia, with its towns of Siphæ [Probably the present Palæo Kastro, at the Port de Dobrena or Polaca.] and Thebes [Leake thinks that the Corsian Thebes, a port of Bœotia, is represented by the modern Khosia.], surnamed the Corsian, in the vicinity of Helicon [Helicon is a range of mountains with several summits, the loftiest of which is now called Paleovuni. Helicon was a grove of the Muses, and the fountain of Aganippe was supposed to impart poetic inspiration to those who drank of it.]. The third town of Bœotia on this sea is that of Pagæ [See p. 288.], from which point the Isthmus of the Peloponnesus projects in the form of a neck.

Chap. 5. (4.)—The Peloponnesus.

The Peloponnesus, which was formerly called Apia [From Apis, the son of Phoroneus, or Telchines, according to Pausanias. After the arrival of Pelops, it took from him its name of Peloponnesus, or the “Island of Pelops.”] and Pelasgia, is a peninsula, inferior in fame to no land upon the face of the earth. Situate between the two seas, the Ægean and the Ionian, it is in shape like the leaf of a plane-tree, in consequence of the angular indentations made in its shores. According to Isidorus, it is 563 miles in circumference; and nearly as much again, allowing for the sea-line on the margin of its gulfs. The narrow pass at which it commences is known by the name of the Isthmus. At this spot the two seas, which we have previously mentioned, running from the north and the east, invade the land from opposite sides [The Ionian from the north, and the Ægean, or rather, Myrtoan, Sea from the east.], and swallow up its entire breadth, the result being that through these inroads in opposite directions of such vast bodies of water, the sides of the land are eaten away to such an extent, that Hellas [That part of Greece proper which lies to the north of the Isthmus.] only holds on to the Peloponnesus by the narrow neck, five miles in width, which intervenes. The Gulfs thus formed, the one on this side, the other on that, are known as the Corinthian [Now the Gulfs of Lepanto and Egina.] and the Saronic Gulfs. The ports of Lecheæ [Lecheæ was the harbour of Corinth on the Corinthian, and Cenchreæ on the Saronic Gulf. The name of the latter is still preserved in the modern appellation Kechries, which is given to its ruins.], on the one side, and of Cenchreæ on the other, form the frontiers of this narrow passage, which thus compels to a tedious and perilous circumnavigation such vessels as from their magnitude cannot be carried across by land on vehicles. For this reason it is that both King Demetrius [Demetrius Poliorcetes, king of Macedonia, son of Antigonus, king of Asia.], Cæsar the Dictator, the prince Caius [Caius Caligula, the Emperor.], and Domitius Nero [The Emperor Nero actually commenced the work, having opened the undertaking with great pomp, and cut away a portion of the earth with his own hands. He had advanced four stadia, when the work was interrupted by the insurrection of Julius Vindex in Gaul.], have at different times made the attempt to cut through this neck by forming a navigable canal; a profane design, as may be clearly seen by the result [We cannot agree with Hardouin that “exitus” here means “death,” in allusion to the unfortunate end of all those who had made the attempt. The opinion of Spanheim seems rather deserving of support (though censured by Hardouin), that it merely means “the result” in each case; it being the fact, that in all the instances the contemplated undertaking was interrupted by some unforeseen event. Periander and Herodes Atticus also contemplated the formation of this channel.] in every one of these instances.

Upon the middle of this intervening neck which we have called the Isthmus, stands the colony of Corinth, formerly known by the name of Ephyre [It is not known when it exchanged this name for that of Corinth; being called by both names in Homer. Scarcely any remains of it are now to be seen. The small town on its site is called Gortho, a corruption of its ancient name. The water of the famed spring of Pirene is now only used for washing clothes.], situate upon the brow of a hill, at a distance of sixty stadia from the shore of either sea. From the heights of its citadel, which is called Acrocorinthos, or the “Heights of Corinth,” and in which is the Fountain of Pirene, it looks down upon the two seas which lie in the opposite directions. From Leucas to Patræ upon the Corinthian gulf is a distance of eighty-eight miles. The colony of Patræ [Now Patras. There are few remains of the ancient city, which was one of the twelve cities of Achaia. It was made a Roman colony by Augustus.] is founded upon the most extensive promontory of the Peloponnesus, facing Ætolia and the river Evenus, the Corinthian Gulf being, as we have previously [See C. 3 of the present Book, p..] stated, less than a mile in width at the entrance there, though extending in length as far as the isthmus, a distance of eighty-five miles.

Chap. 6. (5.)—Achaia.

The province called Achaia [Originally a district in the south of Thessaly had this name; but to distinguish it from that in the Peloponnesus, its people were called the Phthiotian Achæi.] begins at the Isthmus; from the circumstance of its cities being ranged in regular succession on its coast, it formerly had the name of Ægialos [From the Greek word αἰγιαλὸς, “the sea-shore.”]. The first place there is Lecheæ, already mentioned, a port of the Corinthians; next to which is Olyros [Situate on the coast, about five miles from the present Vostitza.], a fortress of the people of Pellene [In the interior. The modern Trikala stands on its site.]; then the former towns of Helice and Bura [Helice was the place of meeting of the Achæan league; when, in B.C. 373, together with Bura, it was swallowed up by an earthquake, and their sites were covered by the sea. Such of the people as escaped fled to the places mentioned above by Pliny. Pouqueville says that some remains of these places may still be seen emerging from the sea.], and the places in which their inhabitants took refuge after their towns had been swallowed up by the sea, Sicyon [The modern Basilico or Vasilika stands on its site.] namely, Ægira [The places called Palæo-Kastro and Vostitza are supposed to occupy the sites of Ægira and Ægium. To the east of Vostitza considerable ruins are still to be seen.], Ægium, and Erineos [Supposed to be the present Artotina.]. In the interior are Cleonæ and Hysiæ [Towns of Roman Argolis. The ruins of the former are supposed to be those at a spot still called Klenes, near the village of Curtesi. The remains of Hysiæ, on the road from Argos to Tegea, stand on a hill above the plain of Achladokampos.]; then come the port of Panormus [Now called Tekieh; fifteen stadia from Rhium.], and Rhium already mentioned; from which promontory, Patræ, of which we have previously spoken, is distant five miles; and then the place where Pheræ [Or Pharæ; 150 stadia from Patræ.] stood. Of the nine mountains of Achaia, Scioessa is the most famous; there is also the Fountain of Cymothoë. Beyond Patræ we find the town of Olenum [The modern Kato-Achaia.], the colony of Dyme [Its remains are to be seen near the modern village of Karavostasi. Pliny is mistaken probably in calling it a colony, as we know that it was placed under the authority of the colony of Patræ, which alone was allowed to enjoy the privilege of self-government.], the places where Buprasium [Pouqueville thinks that it was situate on the river now called the Verga. Leake supposes that the town of Hyrmine stood on the site of the present Kastro Tornese on the peninsula of Khlemutzi; but Boblaye and Curtius place it further north, at the modern harbour of Kunupeli, where there are some ancient ruins.] and Hyrmine once stood, the Promontory of Araxus [Now Capo Papa.], the Bay of Cyllene, and the Promontory of Chelonates, at five miles’ distance from Cyllene [The locality of Cyllene is doubtful. Most writers place it at Glarentza but Pouqueville suggests Andravida or Andravilla, and Mannert places it near Clarenza. Chelinates or Chelonatas was probably the name originally of the whole peninsula of Khlemutzi, but the point here mentioned was most probably the modern Cape Tornese.]. There is also the fortress of Phlius [It lay in the interior, south of Sicyonia, and north of Argos. Pouqueville found its ruins on the banks of the Asopus.]; the district around which was called by Homer Aræthyrea [Strabo says that this was the name of the most ancient town of Phliasia, and that the inhabitants afterwards deserted it for Phlius.], and, after his time, Asopis.

The territory of the Eleans then begins, who were formerly called Epei, with the city of Elis [Some small ruins of it are to be seen at the foot of the hill of Kaloskopi, its ancient Acropolis.] in the interior, and, at a distance of twelve miles from Phlius, being also in the interior, the temple of Olympian Jupiter, which by the universal celebrity of its games, gives to Greece its mode of reckoning [By Olympiads, which were reckoned according to the order of celebration of the Olympic games: they were established in the year B.C. 776, and were celebrated every fourth year.]. Here too once stood the town of Pisa [It was destroyed in the year B.C. 572 by the Eleans, not a vestige of it being left. The Alpheus retains the name of Alfio.], the river Alpheus flowing past it. On the coast there is the Promontory of Ichthys [Or “the Fish,” from its peculiar shape. It is now called Katakolo.]. The river Alpheus is navigable six miles, nearly as far as the towns of Aulon [Probably situate in the valley between Elis and Messenia, which was so called. It is not elsewhere mentioned; and its ruins are thought to be those near the sea, on the right bank of the river Cyparissus. Leprion is again mentioned in c. x.] and Leprion. We next come to the Promontory of Platanodes [Or Platamodes. Supposed to be the present Aja Kyriaki.]. All these localities lie to the west.

Chap. 7.—Messenia.

Further south is the Gulf of Cyparissus, with the city of Cyparissa [This city survived through the middle ages, when it was called Arkadia. In 1525 it was destroyed by the Turks, and when rebuilt resumed nearly its ancient name as Cyparissia, by which it is now called. The bay or gulf is called the Gulf of Arkadia.] on its shores, the line of which is seventy-two miles in length. Then, the towns of Pylos [Messenian Pylos probably stood on the site of the modern Erana; Pouqueville says however that it is still called Pilo, and other writers place it at Zonchio. It stood on the modern Bay of Navarino.] and Methone [Its site was at the spot called Palæo Kastro, near the modern town of Modon. The site of Messenian Helos, so called from its position in the marshes, τὸ ἕλος, is now unknown.], the place where Helos stood, the Promontory of Acritas [Now Capo Gallo.], the Asinæan Gulf, which takes its name from the town of Asine [It stood on the western side of the Messenian Gulf, which from it was called the Asinæan Gulf. Grisso, or, according to some, Iaratcha, occupies its site. Koroni however is most probably the spot where it stood, the inhabitants of ancient Corone having removed to it. Petalidhi stands on the site of Corone. A small portion of the Messenian Gulf was probably called the Coronean.], and the Coronean, so called from Corone; which gulfs terminate at the Promontory of Tænarum [Now Cape Matapan.]. These are all in the country of Messenia, which has eighteen mountains, and the river Pamisus [Now the Pyrnatza.] also. In the interior are Messene [Its ruins, which are extensive, are to be seen in the vicinity of the modern village of Mavromati. Ithome was the citadel of Messene, on a mountain of the same name, now called Vourcano.], Ithome, Œchalia, Arene [It is supposed that in ancient times it occupied the site of the more modern Samos or Samia in Triphylia. The modern Sareni is thought to occupy its site.], Pteleon, Thryon, Dorion [Dorion or Dorium, the spot where, according to Homer, the Muses punished Thamyris with blindness, is supposed to have been situate on the modern plain of Sulima.], and Zancle [Nothing seems to be known of this place; but it is not improbable that it gave its name to the place so called in Sicily, originally a Messenian colony.], all of them known to fame at different periods. The margin of this gulf measures eighty miles, the distance across being thirty.